17/3 : Luang Prabang : douceur de vivre et sourires laotiens

Nous pensions passer 3-4 jours à Luang Prabang, nous y sommes restés 8 jours…c’est vous dire qu’on a bien aimé !

Luang Prabang, située en bordure du Mékong. fut la capitale de Lan Xang (ex Laos), jusqu’au XVIème siècle et est inscrite au patrimoine mondial de l’ Unesco depuis 1995. Ce qui séduit d’emblée, c’est le calme, la tranquillité, les nombreux temples ou monastères tous plus beaux les uns que les autres, les petites gargotes le long du fleuve, les moines vêtus d ‘étoffe d’une belle couleur orangée, les arbres fleuris…et le sourire des laotiens qui vous interpellent d’un joyeux “Sabaidee !” (bonjour ! prononcer Sa-i-ba-i-dii).

DSC05679   DSC05685

Nous avons trouvé un hôtel charmant, ancienne maison coloniale, et le matin, quand nous ne prenons pas notre petit-déjeuner au bord du Mékong, nous déjeunons sur le balcon de notre chambre qui donne sur  un jardin luxuriant. Le propriétaire, un vieux monsieur –ancien diplomate- parle le français.

Nous nous laissons rapidement contaminer par le rythme lent de la population. Un vieux dicton datant de l’époque coloniale dit : “les vietnamiens plantent le riz, les cambodgiens le regardent pousser et les laotiens l’écoutent”…Plus sérieusement, derrière leur nonchalance affichée, les habitants ont à cœur d’entretenir et d’embellir leur ville. De nombreux monuments ont été restaurés ou sont en cours de restauration – pour certains  avec l’aide du gouvernement français.

Nous flânons dans les petites ruelles pavées de briques rouges, nous ne nous lassons pas de visiter les temples ou monastères qui renferment des trésors (enfin, pour être tout à fait exact, Bernard s’en lasse un peu plus rapidement que moi…). La religion –ou la philosophie- bouddhiste est ici omniprésente. Devant chaque maison, est dressé un petit temple dédié au culte des ancêtres.

DSC05741 DSC05714

DSC05698 Chaque matin, dès 6 heures, il faut voir les quelques centaines de moines défiler dans les rues de la ville, recevant leur nourriture de la journée, selon un rituel bien établi : les habitants –et les touristes qui le souhaitent- s’installent sur une natte devant leur maison, les hommes debout, les femmes assises, les épaules recouvertes d’un écharpe. et distribuent par petites quantités du riz, des gâteaux, des fruits…

 

 

Un  jour, nous nous rendons d’un coup de “jumbo” (triporteur à moteur) dans le village voisin de Ban Xang Khong où travaillent de nombreux artisans (tissage, sculpture sur bois, confection de “pâte à papier” incrusté de pétales de fleurs…Les soieries sont magnifiques, difficile de résister à la tentation !

   DSC05743 DSC05768

P1010229 Un autre jour, nous partons en excursion à Tat Kuang Si : des cascades descendant sur plusieurs niveaux creusent des bassins où l’on peut se baigner, un vrai régal d’autant que depuis quelques jours, il fait vraiment très chaud !!!

 

 

 

P1010200 Les journées passent ainsi sans que l’on s’en rende compte. Nous commençons à avoir nos habitudes, nos petits restos, notre boulangerie !…Certains midi, nous pique-niquons, assis dans l’enceinte d’un monastère ou attablés dans le jardin de l’hôtel. Et, petit clin d’œil  à nos parents et amis bretons, nous avons même trouvé du pâté Hénaff sur le marché de Luang Prabang, incroyable, non ?…

 

Enfin, nous nous offrons “une petite folie” : 2 jours dans la forêt avec des éléphants !

Le Laos s’appelait antérieurement Lan Xang, ce qui signifiait le royaume du million d’éléphants. Il n’en reste plus aujourd’hui que 1500 et des programmes ont été mis en place afin de sauver cette espèce menacée d’extinction.

DSC05798 Avant de partir en balade à dos d’éléphant, un “mahout” (cornac) nous initie rapidement à la conduite de “l’animal” : au son de “Pai Pai” (tout droit), “Sai” (à gauche) ou “Koa” (à droite), prononcés fermement, l’éléphant est sensé nous obéir…Bon, heureusement que le mahout reste derrière nous ! N’empêche qu’un éléphant –même d’Asie- c’est haut (ceux d’Afrique sont encore plus grands) et ce n’est pas si simple de garder l’équilibre ! Bernard s’y sent tout de suite très à l’aise ; quant à moi, il me faut un peu plus de temps pour me décrisper et me persuader que je ne vais pas tomber ! Mais après des débuts un peu stressants, j’apprécie de voir le paysage “de haut”. Un seul autre couple de hollandais est avec nous, et en soirée nous allons tranquillement conduire les éléphants qui doivent passer la nuit dans la jungle. Les mains posées à plat sur la tête de l’éléphant, je me laisse bercer en m’étonnant du contact de cette peau rugueuse, et lorsque je sens que je perds l’équilibre, je m’accroche à ses  grandes oreilles !!!

DSC05801  DSC05791

Après une nuit passée dans cet endroit de rêve, nous partons de bon matin rechercher les éléphants pour les amener à la rivière. Bernard retrouve Mae Uak, son éléphant et moi Mae Nam (ben oui, maintenant qu’on se connaît bien, on s’appelle par nos prénoms !…). Re-balade dans la forêt, avec lever du soleil,  puis bain dans la rivière : moment magique et partie de rigolade ! L’éléphant de Bernard, particulièrement taquin, plonge profondément dans l’eau avant de remonter en douceur, Bernard est mouillé jusqu’au cou tandis que le couple de hollandais et moi ne sommes mouillés que jusqu’à la taille ! Munis de brosses, nous leur faisons une toilette énergique qu’ils semblent bien apprécier !

Ces animaux sont étonnants  et nous aurons pris beaucoup de plaisir à les côtoyer pendant ces deux jours.

Au bout de 8 jours, il est tout de même temps de reprendre la route ! Objectif : Vientiane.

Après  8 heures de bus sur une belle route sinueuse, nous faisons halte à Vang Vieng, petite ville située en bordure de rivière. Drôle d’impression : le centre de la ville est envahi de “bars à télé” où une population de jeunes occidentaux regardent, allongés sur des banquettes,  des dessins animés ou la série américaine “friends” qui passe en boucle !!! Les jeunes viennent ici pour les possibilités d’activités : rafting, kayak…et les environs sont très beaux. Mais notre hôtel n’est pas terrible, l’ambiance de la ville ne nous convient guère, mon bras ne nous permet pas de faire du kayak, aussi  nous décidons de poursuivre sans tarder notre route vers Vientiane.

Annick

188 765 réponses à “17/3 : Luang Prabang : douceur de vivre et sourires laotiens”

  1. essay for me dit :

    Hello to all, how is the whole thing, I think every one is getting
    more from this web site, and your views are pleasant in support of new people.

  2. Hi there, just became aware of your blog through Google, and found
    that it is really informative. I’m going to watch out for brussels.
    I’ll appreciate if you continue this in future. Numerous people will be benefited from
    your writing. Cheers!

  3. Thanks in favor of sharing such a pleasant idea,
    article is fastidious, thats why i have read it completely

  4. Hi there, yes this piece of writing is genuinely fastidious and I have learned lot of things from it on the topic of blogging.

    thanks.

    Take a look at my web blog … zrnková káva

  5. My spouse and I absolutely love your blog and find most of your post’s to be what precisely I’m
    looking for. can you offer guest writers to write content available
    for you? I wouldn’t mind publishing a post or elaborating on most of the subjects you write with regards to here.
    Again, awesome web log!

  6. Klara dit :

    Hi there Dear, are you in fact visiting this site regularly, if so then you will definitely take nice knowledge.

  7. webpage dit :

    I’m not that much of a internet reader to bbe honest but your sites really nice,
    keep it up! I’ll ggo ahead and bookmark your website to come back later on.
    Many thanks
    webpage

  8. Definitely believe that which you said. Your favorite justification seemed to be on the web the easiest thing to be aware of.
    I say to you, I definitely get irked while people consider worries that they plainly do not
    know about. You managed to hit the nail upon the top and defined out the whole thing without having side effect , people can take a signal.
    Will probably be back to get more. Thanks

  9. webpage dit :

    Your style is unique in comparison to other people I have read stuff from.

    I appreciate youu for posting when you have the opportunity,
    Guess I will just bookmark this site.
    анаболики webpage анаболіки

  10. Thanks on your marvelous posting! I seriously enjoyed reading
    it, you may be a great author. I will ensure that I
    bookmark your blog and definitely will come back from now on. I want to encourage you to definitely continue your
    great posts, have a nice day!

    Take a look at my blog post Abbaszadeh University

  11. My brother recommended I might like this web site. He was totally right.

    This post actually made my day. You can not imagine just how much time I had spent for this
    information! Thanks!

  12. This design iss spectacular! You most certainly know how to keep
    a reader amused. Between your wit and your videos, I was almost moved to start my
    oown blog (well, almost…HaHa!) Great job. I really enjoyed what you had to say, and more than that, how you presented it.
    Too cool!

    Feel free to visit my webpage Cambridge Institute For Better Vision Eye Max

  13. anlactan.com dit :

    This is very interesting, You’re a very skilled
    blogger. I’ve joined your feed and look forward to
    seeking more of your wonderful post. Also, I’ve shared your
    site in my social networks!

  14. Hi there! I know this is kinda off topic however
    , I’d figured I’d ask. Would you be interested in exchanging links or maybe
    guest writing a blog post or vice-versa? My website goes over a lot of the same topics as
    yours and I believe we could greatly benefit from each other.
    If you might be interested feel free to shoot me an e-mail.
    I look forward to hearing from you! Terrific blog by the way!

  15. dewapoker dit :

    Pretty nice post. I just stumbled upon your weblog
    and wanted to mention that I have truly enjoyed surfing around your blog posts.

    After all I will be subscribing to your
    feed and I hope you write once more very soon!

  16. That is a good tip especially to those new to the blogosphere.
    Simple but very precise info… Many thanks for sharing this
    one. A must read article!

  17. Excellent blog here! Also your website loads up fast!
    What web host are you using? Can I get your affiliate link to your host?
    I wish my website loaded up as fast as yours lol

  18. pinky xxx dit :

    Simply desire to say your article is as astonishing.

    The clearness in your post is just excellent and i can assume you
    are an expert on this subject. Fine with your permission allow me
    to grab your feed to keep updated with forthcoming post.
    Thanks a million and please keep up the rewarding work.

  19. Synergy Life dit :

    Hello, this weekend is pleasant designed for me, as this point in time
    i am reading this enormous informative article here at my residence.

    Here is my site … Synergy Life

  20. W88 dit :

    Hello! I’m at work surfing around your blog from my new iphone!
    Just wanted to say I love reading through your blog and look forward to all your posts!
    Carry on the outstanding work!

  21. It’s the best time to make some plans for the future and it’s time to be happy.
    I have read this post and if I could I wish to
    suggest you few interesting things or suggestions.
    Perhaps you could write next articles referring
    to this article. I wish to read even more things about it!

    Take a look at my website – labradoodle breeder

  22. keds dit :

    I’m really enjoying the theme/design of your blog. Do you ever run into any web browser compatibility
    problems? A handful of my blog readers have complained about
    my site not working correctly in Explorer but looks great in Safari.
    Do you have any suggestions to help fix this issue?

  23. Hi there! I simply would like to offer you a big thumbs up
    for the great info you have got right here on this post.
    I will be coming back to your blog for more soon.

  24. tại đây dit :

    My spouse and I stumbled over here coming from a different page and thought
    I should check things out. I like what I see so i am just
    following you. Look forward to exploring your web page again.

  25. There is definately a lot to learn about this subject.
    I love all of the points you’ve made.

  26. Beatriz dit :

    You actually make it appear so easy with your presentation however I find this
    topic to be really something which I think I’d never understand.
    It sort of feels too complicated and very huge for me.
    I’m looking ahead for your subsequent post, I will
    try to get the hang of it!

  27. click here dit :

    Hello there! I know this is kind of off topic but I was wondering
    which blog platform are you using for this website? I’m getting fed up of Wordpress because I’ve had issues with hackers and I’m looking at alternatives for another platform.
    I would be awesome if you could point me in the direction of a good platform.

  28. We are a group of volunteers and starting a new scheme in our community.

    Your site offered us with valuable info to work on. You have done a formidable job and our whole community will be thankful to you.

    my blog post: washable face mask

  29. Pretty! This has been an extremely wonderful post. Many thanks for supplying this info.

  30. Hey! Someone in my Myspace group shared this website
    with us so I came to look it over. I’m definitely loving the information. I’m book-marking and will be tweeting this to my
    followers! Exceptional blog and great style and design.

  31. I always emailed this blog post page to
    all my associates, for the reason that if like to read it after that
    my contacts will too.

    Feel free to surf to my blog – labradoodle puppies

  32. Asking questions are truly nice thing if you are
    not understanding something completely, however this piece of writing presents fastidious understanding even.

  33. Hi, i think that i noticed you visited my website so i came
    to go back the favor?.I am attempting to find things to improve my web site!I suppose its good enough to use a few of your ideas!!

  34. aktuality dit :

    It’s perfect time to make some plans for the future and it’s
    time to be happy. I have read this post and if I could I want
    to suggest you few interesting things or tips. Perhaps you can write next articles referring to this article.
    I desire to read even more things about it!

  35. 16 Hair Ties) dit :

    Pretty nice post. I just stumbled upon your blog and wished to say that I’ve truly enjoyed browsing your blog posts.
    In any case I’ll be subscribing for your rss feed and I’m hoping you write once more soon!

  36. coffee beauty dit :

    The other day, while I was at work, my sister stole
    my iPad and tested to see if it can survive a twenty five foot drop, just so she can be a youtube sensation. My
    apple ipad is now broken and she has 83 views. I know this is entirely off topic but I had
    to share it with someone!

  37. dịch vụ seo fame media
    I am really loving the theme/design of your blog.
    Do you ever run into any web browser compatibility issues?

    A couple of my blog readers have complained about my website not working correctly in Explorer but
    looks great in Chrome. Do you have any tips to help fix this problem?

  38. Thank you a bunch for sharing this with all people
    you really recognise what you’re speaking about! Bookmarked.
    Kindly additionally visit my site =). We will have a link alternate arrangement between us

  39. Tech dit :

    Greetings! I know this is kinda off topic nevertheless I’d figured I’d ask.
    Would you be interested in exchanging links or maybe guest
    writing a blog post or vice-versa? My site covers a lot
    of the same topics as yours and I believe we could greatly benefit from each other.

    If you happen to be interested feel free to send me an e-mail.

    I look forward to hearing from you! Superb blog by the
    way!

  40. Good way of telling, and nice paragraph to get information on the topic of my presentation focus,
    which i am going to deliver in university.

  41. Hi, i read your blog occasionally and i own a
    similar one and i was just curious if you get a lot of
    spam feedback? If so how do you protect against
    it, any plugin or anything you can advise? I get so much lately it’s
    driving me crazy so any assistance is very much appreciated.

  42. Thanks for some other magnificent article. The place else may anybody get that kind of information in such an ideal way
    of writing? I’ve a presentation subsequent week, and I am on the search for such
    info.

  43. stamp shop, dit :

    Great site. A lot of helpful information here. I’m sending it
    to a few pals ans additionally sharing in delicious.
    And obviously, thanks on your effort!

  44. Get More Info dit :

    Thank you for any other wonderful post. The place else may anybody get that type of information in such an ideal way of writing? I’ve a presentation next week, and I am at the look for such info.

  45. I’m really inspired along with your writing talents as neatly as with the layout to your blog.
    Is that this a paid topic or did you modify it your self?
    Either way stay up the nice quality writing,
    it’s uncommon to see a nice weblog like this one these days..

  46. Hiya! I know this is kinda off topic however , I’d figured I’d ask.
    Would you be interested in trading links or maybe guest writing a blog article or vice-versa?

    My blog discusses a lot of the same topics as yours and
    I believe we could greatly benefit from each other. If you happen to be interested feel free to send me
    an email. I look forward to hearing from you! Superb blog
    by the way!

  47. I really like it when folks get together and share ideas. Great blog,
    continue the good work!

  48. These are really wonderful ideas in on the topic of blogging.

    You have touched some good factors here. Any way keep up wrinting.

  49. An interesting discussion is worth comment. There’s no doubt that that you need to write more on this topic, it may not be a taboo subject but typically folks
    don’t speak about these subjects. To the next! Cheers!!

  50. Rich Starks dit :

    Appreciation to my father who stated to me about this
    webpage, this web site is genuinely awesome.

    my web blog :: natural beauty donkey milk soap

Laisser un commentaire