29/4 – Malaisie contre Thaïlande

Nous avions envisagé de rejoindre la Malaisie par voie terrestre depuis Phnom-Penh en passant par Bangkok, bus et train, genre Orient-Express. Cependant les informations recueillies ici et là sur la situation en Thaïlande nous ont conduit à la prudence et à prendre un avion Phnom-Penh/Malaisie. Nous avions rencontré des Malaisiens qui nous ont donné quelques conseils sur la visite de leur pays, et entres-autres l’ile de Penang. C’est là notre premier stop. Evidemment la chaleur ne nous quitte pas pire il fait plus chaud et surtout plus humide. La première impression qui se dégage, c’est la diversité des populations Malaises, constituée de Chinois, d’Indiens et de Malais. Et cela est immédiatement visible. Arrêtons nous quelques instants sur ce Pays : 25 millions d’habitants. Malais 63%, Chinois 24%, Indiens 8% . Des émeutes raciales en 1969 entre Malais et Chinois avaient marqué le sommet de l’hostilité entre les 2 communautés; mais depuis ils ont réussi à forger une société plus tolérante et on commence à parler d’une identité Malaisienne.  L’instauration forcée de la langue malaise comme langue nationale a contribué à l’unité du pays. Mais les chinois et les Indiens aujourd’hui craignent une islamisation du pays, l’islam étant religion d’état. Le port du voile est obligatoire, lors des défilés officiels, pour toutes les femmes policiers, quelle que soit leur religion et il y a une forte pression sociale pour contraindre toutes les femmes à le porter. Après le Laos , le Cambodge, le Viet Nam nous retrouvons en Malaisie beaucoup moins de “désordre” par exemple il y a des feux rouges, tout le monde circule à gauche sans croiser un véhicule venant en sens inverse ( vécu au Cambodge!) Les rues sont cleans, en tous cas dans le centre, mais laissent peu de place aux piétons.

P1010417 Mais revenons à Penang ou plus précisément à Georgetown sa ville principale. nous y restons 4 jours espérant retrouver une plage/cocotier pour y flâner. Hélas très touristiquées les plages n’accueillent que jets-ski et autres parapentes. Bon c’est pas pour nous! Nous ne tardons pas à rejoindre Kuala Lumpur la capitale, en bus.

 

 

  • 3/5 – Kuala Lumpur

2 millions d’habitants. Un centre autour duquel se concentrent les milieux d’affaires, constitué de tours géantes, dont les 2 tours Petronas , 452m,  88 étages d’acier. Le soir leur illumination embrase toute la ville, c’est assez féerique. La ville de KLP est organisée autour des communautés qui la composent Littel India, pour les indiens, Chinatown pour les chinois et Kampug Baru pour les malais . Nous faisons pour chaque quartier un petit rando, histoire de se tremper dans les différentes cultures.

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La visite de 2 sites marquent notre passage à KLP:

1) Le musée des arts islamiques qui abrite une des plus belles collections d’arts décoratifs musulmans du monde. Expositions de textiles, tapis, poteries, bijoux , ouvrages  originaux  contenant le coran datant du XIIème siècle. Le tout dans un bâtiment  qui est lui-même une merveille architecturale avec ses dômes et ses  céramiques.

2) Les tours Petronas, qui tiennent leur nom de la compagnie nationale pétrolière et gazière. Depuis le 42ème étage nous pouvons admirer KLP à 360°. Elles abritent, centre commercial, restos, salles de congrès , hôtel et boutiques de luxe etc….. Ainsi qu’une salle de concert où nous entendrons l’orchestre philarmonique de KLP, un moment de richesse culturelle pour 7 euros ! Nous n’avions pas assisté à un concert depuis notre départ de France.

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  • 6/5 – Malacca

Après l’agitation de KLP, Malacca nous apparaît comme une petite ville tranquille où il ferait bon séjourner si ce n’était cette chaleur que nous supportons de plus en plus difficilement et qui nous ôte une partie de notre énergie.

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De bon matin, nous partons malgré tout à la découverte de la ville. La rivière Sangai Melaka coule au centre , des bateaux transportent les nombreux touristes (principalement d’origine asiatique). On retrouve un peu ici l’ambiance chinoise de Hoi An (Viet Nam), avec de superbes maisons restaurées (dommage que les photos soient interdites à l’intérieur de certaines maisons que nous avons pu visiter…). La communauté chinoise est sans conteste plus riche que la communauté indienne.

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On trouve à Malacca le dernier fabricant de chaussures pour pieds bandés : ce ne sont plus maintenant que des objets de décoration, mais c’est effarant de penser à ce que ces femmes ont pu endurer jusqu’à une période récente ! La plupart d’entre elles finissaient leur vie infirmes…

 

Ici aussi nous sommes frappés par la culture pluriconfessionnelle : les mosquées et l’appel à la prière du muezzin cohabitent avec les sons des cloches des églises chrétiennes et les maisons datant de la domination portugaise ou hollandaise, tandis que chinois et hindous honorent leurs ancêtres dans les temples…

DSC06403 En fin de matinée, accablés de chaleur, nous décidons de prendre un “trishaw” pour rentrer à l’hôtel (comme les rickshaw mais le vélo est situé sur le côté et non derrière les passagers). Si vous venez à Malacca, il ne faut manquer cela sous aucun prétexte ! Ici les conducteurs ne savent quoi inventer pour que l’on remarque leur trishaw : ils les recouvrent de fleurs en plastique, de guirlandes électriques qui clignotent le soir, certains ont une sono qui diffuse de la musique à tue-tête etc…Celui dans lequel nous montons a la particularité d’être décoré de poupées Barbie !!!

Ce dimanche nous partons pour la journée sur l’île de Besar, espérant y trouver un peu de fraîcheur. Courte traversée en bateau et nous nous retrouvons au beau milieu d’une foule de musulmans d’origine indienne venus ici pour une fête religieuse. Leur islam nous semble différent de celui que nous connaissons : hommes et femmes prient ensemble dans le même espace, peu de femmes sont voilées, offrandes de nourritures et encens évoquent davantage les pratiques hindouistes. Après la prière, les fidèles se partagent les offrandes…Nous sommes quasiment les seuls occidentaux. L’accueil qui nous est réservé est très amical. Mais ici pas question de se baigner en maillot de bain, les femmes notamment se baignent avec leurs vêtements.

Petite ombre au tableau, on nous a dérobé 700 dollars US dans notre chambre d’Hôtel. On rage, on rage……

Mais, cette ombre au tableau est largement compensée par l’annonce d’un heureux évènement :  à l’occasion d’un contact vidéo sur notre ordinateur,  Laurent et ma fille Nathalie nous annoncent leur désir de se marier cet été. Donc Laurent fait auprès de moi une demande en bonne et due forme. Après consultation de Nathalie ( on a beau être dans un pays à majorité musulmane c’est pas un mariage arrangé!!!!) Je donne mon accord. Encore un moment d’émotion qui marquera notre voyage .

  • 10/5 l’île de Tioman

Long trajet en bus – pas très confortable- puis ferry . Nous avons circulé en Malaisie du Nord au Sud et les paysages traversés se résument à une succession infinie de plantations de palmiers (à huile ?).

L’île de Tioman est une petite île, baignée par la Mer de Chine méridionale. Une seule route longe une partie de la côte ouest, une autre route récemment construite relie les côtes ouest et est. Toutes les autres liaisons entre les petits villages de pêcheurs se font par bateau… L’intérieur de l’île est le domaine de la jungle. C’est vous dire que nous avons un peu le sentiment de nous retrouver au milieu de nulle part…Et pour renforcer encore davantage cette impression, nous choisissons de nous rendre sur la côte est, très peu habitée puisque seulement deux petits villages se situent sur cette côte.

Quel régal ! Des plages de sable blanc, des eaux bleu-turquoise, un bungalow à deux pas de la plage. Nous nous “tanquons” là pendant 4 jours. Baignades ( l’eau est même parfois un peu trop chaude à notre goût !), siestes, repas au restaurant de l’hôtel tenu par une charmante famille malaise d’origine chinoise…

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Une sortie en mer nous permet de découvrir pendant plusieurs heures des fonds sous-marins de toute beauté : coraux, nombreuses espèces de poissons de taille et de couleur variée, on nage sans se lasser dans un  aquarium grandeur nature (pas de photos mais des souvenirs plein la tête).

 

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Pause pique-nique dans une petite crique où des varans moins sympathiques tentent de nous prendre notre casse-croûte !

 

 

 

Après cette halte insulaire, nous reprenons la route pour Singapour.

Bernard et Annick

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