17/5 – BALI : étonnement, beauté, sérénité, harmonie

Tels sont les mots qui me viennent à l’esprit lorsque j’évoque Bali. Nous avons aimé Bali, nous y avons trouvé un total dépaysement, rien de semblable à ce que nous avons pu voir au cours des mois précédents. Appelée “l’île des mille temples”, les rites religieux rythment ici la vie quotidienne d’une  population  très majoritairement hindouiste et animiste.

Il existe différentes sortes de temples :

   . les temples familiaux : chaque famille hindoue possède un temple dans son habitation – temple d’importance plus ou moins grande selon la richesse de la famille -  On peut même  dire que parfois la construction de l’habitat s’articule autour du temple qui en est le bâtiment principal. Ces temples ont pour fonction d’honorer les ancêtres et les dieux afin d’attirer leur protection sur la maison et ses habitants.

  . les temples de village ont une fonction sociale : offrandes aux divinités pour obtenir la protection de la nature, lieux où se prennent les décisions relatives à l’organisation sociale du village, lieux où se fêtent les évènements heureux ou malheureux, cimetières…

  . d’autres temples  ont une fonction religieuse plus large et  peuvent être honorés par des hindous du monde entier.

D’emblée, l’étranger qui “débarque” à Bali est saisi par cette omniprésence du spirituel qui se retrouve jusque dans la conception de l’ architecture puisque les plans des bâtiments obéissent par exemple à des règles qui doivent garantir l’harmonie entre les dieux, l’homme et la nature.

  • Kuta et ses environs

Bon, Kuta n’est pas le meilleur exemple de cette harmonie balinaise. La ville est une suite de boutiques, restaurants, cafés…Heureusement, notre hôtel est un peu en retrait de cette animation bruyante. Il fait une chaleur étouffante, moite, et il nous tarde d’aller vers Ubud où l’air est paraît-il plus frais…

Mais Kuta, c’est aussi le paradis des surfeurs, et nous qui ne surfons pas, nous nous contentons d’être des spectateurs médusés devant ces vagues qui déferlent…Quel plaisir de se laisser rouler dans la mer ! plaisir hélas non partagé avec Bernard qui ne peut se baigner tant que son oreille n’est pas guérie.

Pas très loin de Kuta, deux temples situés sur des emplacements magnifiques :

        . le temple d’Uluh Wattu, où des dizaines de singes terrorisent les pauvres touristes en leur chipant sacs, lunettes, appareils de photos…Il n’est pas possible de pénétrer à l’intérieur du temple – ce qui se justifie aisément car vu le nombre de touristes, les hindous ne pourraient plus accéder à leurs lieux de prière – mais les extérieurs sont très beaux et le site en bord de falaise est splendide.

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       . le temple de Tanah Loth, qui s’avance dans la mer. Il suffit d’oublier les marchands du temple à l’entrée et de se promener ensuite dans ces lieux en se laissant envahir par la poésie et la sérénité de l’endroit.

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  • Ubud

Nous avons la chance d’arriver en pleine fête  de Galungan : célébration de la victoire des forces du bien sur les forces du mal. Toutes les rues sont ornées de penjor, hautes tiges de bambou élevées devant chaque maison et habilement décorées de plantes, fruits ou légumes. Les Balinais ont fière allure dans  leurs habits de cérémonie.

DSC06530  DSC06497

En dépit de l’afflux touristique, Ubud conserve  un charme extraordinaire et illustre tout à fait cette recherche de beauté et d’harmonie chères aux balinais. De hauts murs protègent les maisons, mais la petite porte donnant sur le jardin ou le temple familial reste volontiers ouverte. Ici, chaque soir vous pouvez assister à des spectacles envoutants de danses traditionnelles – danses et musiques exécutées par des professionnels ou par des habitants d’Ubud. Ainsi, la propriétaire de l’hôtel où nous logeons participe deux fois par semaine à un spectacle de danses legong : avec une vingtaine d’autres femmes , elle accompagne au gamelan les danseuses aux vêtements somptueux et aux gestes infiniment précieux où l’essentiel du mouvement s’exprime dans le déplacement de la tête, des yeux ou les écartements des doigts !…

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Le kecak, une autre danse traditionnelle à laquelle j’ai assisté (Bernard a dû renoncer à y venir pour éviter les décibels…) était tout aussi impressionnante : cette fois, pas d’instruments de musique, mais les voix graves et lancinantes d’une soixantaine d’hommes assis en cercles concentriques et qui entrent peu à peu en transe. Cela se poursuit par la danse du feu où j’ai pu voir un homme danser sur les braises !…

L’art est présent partout, galeries de peintures, sculpteurs sur bois ou sur pierre, musées. Les balinais sont inventifs, créateurs, un modeste muret, de simples pavés dans la rue se transforment en œuvres d’art, les maisons, les jardins, les temples, les boutiques regorgent de poésie et de fantaisie. La mousse verte qui recouvre statues et pierres en raison d’un taux d’humidité très élevé, transforme  habitations et  chemins en sites antiques…

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Notre hôtel est l’un de ces lieux magiques. Le propriétaire, architecte, excelle dans “le chaos organisé”,  bâtiments et escaliers s’enchevêtrent et pourtant, une harmonie incroyable s’en dégage…Situé dans une ruelle où les voitures passent difficilement, il y règne un calme troublé seulement par l’eau d’une  fontaine se déversant dans une petite piscine…

Et pour ajouter encore aux plaisirs de cette ville, nous y avons déniché de bons restaurants ! Comment ne pas succomber au charme de l’endroit !

  • Les montagnes du Centre

DSC06573 Bali est une île volcanique. Visiter l’île n’est pas des plus facile : les routes, peu nombreuses, ne sont pas toujours en bon état et les transports en commun peu fréquents, voire inexistants. Afin de pouvoir sillonner les petites routes de l’intérieur de l’île ou de la côte, nous avons donc loué une voiture pendant une semaine. Quel régal pour les yeux !!! Mais dans un premier temps, il a fallu que Bernard s’habitue à la conduite à gauche, pas simple, d’autant plus que le code de la route semble inexistant ! (moi, je n’ai pas eu le droit de conduire, Bernard serait mort de peur !…). A cela s’ajoute la difficulté liée au fait que les indications de routes sont très rares. A chaque embranchement, il nous faut nous arrêter pour demander notre chemin.

Rencontre avec une famille balinaise au-dessus du Danau Tamblingan (danau = lac), échanges éphémères, sourires, chaleur humaine…

DSC06571 Nous n’avons pas été très gâtés par le temps (beaucoup de pluie, ce qui est fréquent dans ces régions) mais cela ne nous a pas empêché d’apprécier la beauté de ces paysages façonnés par les rizières en terrasses. Petits villages, temples, processions religieuses…Ici très peu de touristes. A plusieurs reprises,  des balinais nous ont même demandé l’autorisation de nous photographier !

 

 

DSC06549 Imaginez maintenant un hôtel – plutôt luxe – situé à l’écart du petit village de Pupuan, sur les pentes du Gunung Batukau (gunung = mont), la deuxième plus haute montagne de Bali (2276 m), imaginez la piscine à débordement qui donne sur les rizières en terrasses, imaginez les petits bungalows aménagés avec tout le savoir-faire balinais, imaginez enfin une salle de restaurant ouvrant à 180° sur les paysages alentour, une douce musique diffusant des airs d’opéra…vous comprendrez pourquoi nous y sommes restés 2 nuits, et non une seule comme prévu initialement !

Et comme nous avons bien fait ! Car le lendemain, Gusti, l’un des serveurs, nous invite chaleureusement à assister à une cérémonie religieuse au sein du petit temple de la propriété (un simple autel dressé près d’un arbre). Bernard et moi sommes les seuls occidentaux. Le personnel de l’hôtel, mais aussi les habitants du village arrivent progressivement, vêtus de leurs habits traditionnels, les femmes portent sur la tête des corbeilles tressées contenant les offrandes : pétales de fleurs, encens, fruits, gâteaux, mais aussi  boissons, même des cannettes de bière ! (Il faut préciser qu’ après avoir été bénies par le prêtre, les offrandes sont partagées entre tous les participants). L’ambiance est bon enfant, certains conversent, rient, deux hommes fument tandis que le prêtre officie. Après avoir béni les offrandes, le prêtre bénit tour à tour chaque participant, à cet instant le silence règne. Bien sûr, nous aimerions avoir les explications, les clés de compréhension de ces gestes ritualisés, de ces paroles prononcées…Fichu barrage de la langue !.. La cérémonie terminée, chacun repart à ses occupations.

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DSC06644  DSC06614

Merci à toi, Gusti, pour cet instant partagé.

Difficile de s’arracher à cet endroit, mais il faut bien poursuivre notre route.

Après une halte d’une nuit à Lovina, sur la côte Nord, où nous n’avons vraiment pas envie de nous attarder –trop touristique, trop commerçant, des plages mal entretenues – nous poursuivons notre exploration du centre de l’île, dans la région du Gunung Batur. Le temps couvert et de temps en temps pluvieux nous empêche d’apercevoir les cônes des volcans environnants, mais la route qui longe l’arête du cratère est magnifique.

Halte en fin de journée dans un hôtel à Kedisan,sur la rive du Danau Batur . Nous y rencontrons un couple avec deux enfants – elle originaire de Vendée, lui de Chiloë, au Chili – qui vivent depuis plusieurs années en Nouvelle Calédonie.

P1010500  DSC06676

L’itinéraire qui traverse ensuite des régions montagneuses avant d’arriver sur la côte Est vaut vraiment le détour. Villages, temples, paysages, on voudrait s’arrêter tout le temps, malheureusement, le temps n’est pas au beau, donc peu de photos…

Visite du Pura Besakih (pura = temple), le temple le plus important de Bali. C’est un vaste ensemble de 23 temples à l’intérieur desquels les touristes ne peuvent pénétrer, mais les extérieurs à eux seuls valent le coup d’œil. Il faudrait se trouver ici lors des fêtes religieuses durant lesquelles affluent des milliers de fidèles.

DSC06680  DSC06693

En fin d’après-midi, nous “dégottons” à Sidemen, un nouvel hôtel charmant, situé au milieu de champs de piments et de rizières, et offrant “normalement” (mais hélas, pas aujourd’hui) la vue sur le Gunung Agung, point culminant et montagne la plus vénérée de Bali.

Balade au Palais aquatique de Tirta Gangga

DSC06712  DSC06706

  • Amed et la côte Est

Rien à voir ici avec la côte sud-ouest : pas de belles boutiques comme à Kuta, pas de surf, pas de tourisme de masse. Une petite route longe le littoral, traversant des villages ou hameaux dispersés. Si l’on en juge par le nombre important de jukung (barques) colorés, tous les habitants pratiquent la pêche.

Autre activité du coin : la récolte du sel. Ici, la pauvreté se ressent, des enfants tentent de gagner quelques sous en vendant de petits paniers de sel. Bien sûr cette pratique ne doit pas être encouragée, mais de quel droit pourrions-nous condamner ou juger les parents qui préfèreraient sans nul doute que leurs enfants aillent à l’école et s’amusent à des jeux de leur âge…Contraste avec le cadre idyllique de notre hôtel, à deux pas de la plage, avec piscine et vue (enfin !) sur le Gunung Agung.

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Nous sympathisons avec deux jeunes serveurs de l’hôtel :

              Komang (22-23 ans), dont le père est pêcheur et qui nous a bien fait rire en nous parlant de sa période “métal” durant laquelle il avait des “piercings” un peu partout…jusqu’à ce qu’il réalise que s’il voulait trouver du travail, il fallait qu’il revoie son “look” !!! Komang met actuellement des sous de côté pour s’acheter un “skateboard” et apprend le français avec les touristes qu’il côtoie et avec l’aide de son cousin Kadek.

              Kadek, qui aime la langue française et qui cherche sans cesse à se perfectionner, vérifiant que les mots qu’il emploie et la conjugaison des verbes sont corrects. Il connaît des expressions qui nous surprennent (par exemple “il pleut comme vache qui pisse” !).  Kadek nous a demandé de correspondre avec lui par internet pour l’aider à améliorer son écrit.

La gentillesse des balinais n’est vraiment pas une légende ! Nous avons rencontré une multitude de gens chaleureux, accueillants, ouverts, tolérants – tout en sachant garder leur identité. Et l’on  comprend leur désarroi face aux attentats de terroristes islamistes dont ils ont été victimes en 2002 puis en 2005, cela va tellement à l’encontre des croyances qui les fondent ! Les personnes qui ont connu Bali avant que cette île ne devienne une destination touristique courue, sont bien sûr nostalgiques de cette période. Mais le tourisme n’a pas que des effets négatifs et l’on peut espérer que les balinais sauront continuer à  adroitement concilier le développement touristique et le maintien de leur mode de vie ! Il y aurait encore beaucoup d’aspects à développer sur cette civilisation (je pense notamment à l’organisation de la société en castes), mais d’abord nous n’avons pas tout compris ( ! ) et je crains de lasser nos fidèles lecteurs !

Annick

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