HUARAZ : dur, dur l’altitude !(suite)

HUARAZ :

Ville à  l’architecture « indéfinissable », nous dit le guide  Lonely Planet (notre bible !) : on ne peut mieux dire !…Les habitations, faites de briques rouges pour la plupart, n’ont pas de caractère et paraissent souvent inachevées. La ville semble un immense chantier permanent…A chaque coin de rue ou le long des trottoirs, des étals de fruits, de légumes ou de tout autre produit…On peut ainsi déguster des jus d’oranges tout frais pressés ou des tranches d’ananas (délicieux !..) pour 1 ou 2 soles ( env. 0,25 €), mais aussi des salades composées à base de haricots et de tomates (chuchos)…Et pour reposer nos estomacs un peu malmenés par les changements alimentaires, nous optons parfois pour des restaurants pour touristes : nous avons pris un abonnement au  « Piccolo », resto italien – le service y est lent (au Pérou nous apprenons la patience…), mais c’est bon et copieux et à la carte figurent aussi des spécialités péruviennes, mais supportables par nos estomacs occidentaux…Et leur « pisco » est très bon, alors !…

Sur la Plaza de Armas, une immense cathédrale est en construction (je ne peux m’empêcher de penser qu’il y aurait sûrement d’autres priorités, mais…) ; une fois finie, elle masquera une partie de la vue sur les montagnes environnantes (là je ne vous dis pas ce que j’en pense…)

Péruviennes en costume traditionnel

Beaucoup de femmes sont encore ici vêtues de manière traditionnelle : jupes courtes évasées sur des collants ou  caleçons en laine, chemisiers et gilets en laine , le tout dans des couleurs vives, et enfin des chapeaux de feutre superbes. Je suis frustrée de ne pouvoir en ramener un, d’autant plus que nous en avons vu en vente au marché central à seulement 24 soles ( 6 €) !…Leurs long cheveux noirs, souvent tressés en nattes, et leurs jupes courtes  colorées donnent aux femmes des allures de petites filles. Les hommes n’ont pas de costume particulier – hormis parfois dans les montagnes le poncho- mais portent aussi des chapeaux en feutre qui leur donnent fière allure

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Randonnées dans La Cordillera Blanca

Paysages grandioses, sommets enneigés qui culminent à plus de 6000 mètres, nombreux lacs en altitude  : les randos à faire ne manquent pas…Nous avons malheureusement dû renoncer à faire le trek de Santa Cruz pour lequel nous nous étions inscrits en raison des difficultés persistantes d’acclimatation à l’altitude. Ce trek qui se déroule sur 4 jours supposait de passer 2 nuits en haute altitude (3600 m et 4250 m)…Compte tenu des expériences passées, nous avons  opté pour la raison et la prudence…Peut-être aussi notre préparation physique était-elle cette fois insuffisante…

Nous avons tout de même pu faire de belles balades à la journée : les lacs LLaca, Llanganuco (aux eaux turquoise), les ruines de Walcawain… et pour finir le lac Churup à 4450 mètres tout de même !…Seul Bernard est allé jusqu’au bout, moi je me suis arrêtée à une demi-heure du but, la dernière montée étant particulièrement difficile…

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A savoir : lorsque l’on réside à HUARAZ, peu de randonnées sont directement accessibles, il faut alors prendre un taxi qui vous emmène dans la montagne sur le lieu de départ d’une randonnée (parfois 1 ou 2 heures de taxi sur des pistes scabreuses…)

Bonnes adresses à retenir :

à HUARAZ : auberge Churup

des chambres très propres, coquettes, aménagées avec goût. Petit déjeuner à volonté dans un salon au dernier étage offrant une vue panoramique sur les sommets enneigés,  feu de cheminée tous les soirs à partir de 18 heures… Echange de livres possible, internet, wi-fi…Les gens qui y travaillent sont charmants : Juan, Percy, Lili toujours disponible et efficace…

Dépendant de cette auberge, une agence de trek Quenual Adventures Tours, dont nous avons eu de bons échos

dans la montagne, à une demi-heure de taxi de HUARAZ :

le refuge Way Inn Lodge : 3715 mètres

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Nous y sommes restés 3 nuits, et y serions restés encore davantage…

Niché au coeur des montagnes, l’environnement est extraordinaire, les chambres sont sobres et belles, les grosses couettes confortables font oublier les basses températures nocturnes, et le matin nous avons pu assister, de notre lit, au lever du jour sur les montagnes…Bref, le rêve !…

Paul, le propriétaire nglais), allume le poêle dans la salle commune tous les soirs, et l’électricité fonctionne de 18h à 21h

Nous y avons rencontré des gens fort sympathiques : Hussein, québecois d’origine libanaise, Anne et Laure, deux jeunes françaises -l’une vivant à Chambéry et l’autre à Bogota- Antonio des USA et son copain Roman, mexicain, une américaine, professeur de yoga, au rire un peu hystérique, et Morris, photographe, toujours en mouvement, ainsi qu’un jeune couple d’israéliens…Ceci pour vous donner une idée du mélange des langues parlées à table !…

Annick

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