Rando dans les Andes

3 jours à travers les montagnes, concoctés pour nous sur mesure par notre agence favorite Terres magiques des Incas. Detan, jeune guide francophone dont le rêve est de connaitre la France- par ailleurs étudiant en tourisme à l’université de Cusco – nous accompagne.

Départ en taxi de Cusco jusqu’au site inca de Tambo Machay où nous attend Silverio, le père de Detan, venu avec son cheval pour porter nos bagages. Pour cela, il lui a fallu  partir de chez lui à 3 heures du matin et circuler de nuit à cheval dans la montagne pendant 4h !…

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Nous devons dormir le soir chez Silverio et sa femme Natividad (appelée Nati) : nous mettrons 8 heures pour regagner à pied leur communauté de Huchuy Qosqo et arriverons bien fatigués. Silverio, lui, aura parcouru 2 fois cette distance dans la journée (aller à cheval et retour à pied) !!!…

Le territoire du Pérou est divisé – par ordre décroissant d’importance – en départements, provinces, districts (régis par le maire) et communautés. Une communauté regroupe entre 20 et 50 familles vivant en habitat dispersé dans la montagne, et est rattachée à un district. Chaque communauté élit un(e) président(e) chargé de porter les intérêts de la communauté au niveau du district. Silverio et Nati ont été élus à plusieurs reprises. La plupart des habitants ne parle que le quechua. Silverio parle aussi l’espagnol et peut ainsi échanger un peu avec Bernard.

La rando commence par une montée durant 2 heures jusqu’au col de Pumamarka – 4200 mètres – Le sentier surplombe la Vallée sacrée, le paysage est grandiose, on y découvre des lacs et des champs de pommes de terre cultivés entre 3500 et 4000 mètres selon une technique ancestrale (il faut d’abord retourner de grosses mottes de terre et les semences de pommes de terre sont calées sous les mottes).

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Partout des vestiges de sites incas, des terrasses à flanc de montagne…Detan est intarrissable sur son pays et sur la civilisation inca. Il a appris le français à l’ Alliance française de Cusco, notamment à travers la chanson française : il connaît Brel, Brassens, Cabrel et beaucoup d’autres encores. Nous marchons en chantant…

Dernier col à 4200 mètres – le col de Rumicruz -  trois grands tumulus indiquent les limites de trois provinces. Un orage de grêle a transformé le paysage, le col est tout blanc, très beau…

DSC03299 DSC03297

DSC03310 Puis descente dans le canyon Leon Ponko (ou Puma Ponko). Les kantu, petites fleurs rouges, emblêmes du Pérou parsèment le sentier.

 

Ce sentier, habituellement peu fréquenté, est aujourd’hui « envahi » par des étudiants (une centaine ?) : des étudiants de dernière année emmènent en montagne des étudiants de première année. Ils se rendent également à la communauté d’Huchuy Qosqo et camperont près de notre logement : la fête durera toute la nuit, pour le calme de la montagne, il faudra revenir une autre fois !!!…

Huchuy Qosqo est un important site inca militaire. Nous arrivons chez les parents de Detan par un superbe sentier inca restauré. Nati nous accueille en versant sur nos têtes des pétales de fleurs .

La communauté, trop haut perchée dans la montagne, ne bénéficie pas d’électricité et ici, à 18 heures il fait nuit (et froid). Les paysans vivent au rythme du jour, se lèvent  tôt (vers 4 heures ) et se couchent tôt (vers 19 heures). Pour aller à l’école les enfants doivent descendre dans la vallée, à Limay – environ 1 heure -

Pour pouvoir aller à l’école maternelle, Mélanie, la petite soeur de Detan, vit durant la semaine à Limay chez sa soeur aînée.

DSC03320 Tous les habitants ont construits eux-mêmes leurs habitations (murs en adobe et toîts en chaume ) en pratiquant l’heini (entr’aide : je t’aide aujourd’hui, tu m’aides demain). Cette pratique vaut également pour les cultures.

 

Repas aux chandelles puis repos après une journée bien remplie.

Jour 2

Le lendemain au petit-déjeuner nous attend une surprise de taille : Detan nous dit qu’hier soir il est resté parler avec ses parents et que son père a décidé de nous demander d’être les parrain et marraine de  Mélanie, âgée de trois ans et demi !

DSC03316 Mélanie et son frère Detan

Nous acceptons avec plaisir cet honneur qui nous est fait et participons au rituel : Mélanie est assise sur une table, elle a de longs cheveux noirs. Nati lui a fait deux tresses que Bernard et moi devons couper. Je reçois en cadeau un sac tissé et Bernard un gilet. Detan (qui adore sa petite soeur !) lui coupe à son tour une touffe de cheveux.  Silverio sort alors son (sa ?) lahuato (longue flûte), en donne un à Bernard et avec Detan au pututo (conque marine), ils nous jouent un air traditionnel – la vérité m’oblige à dire que Bernard n’est pas parvenu à sortir le moindre son de son instrument !

P1000210   DSC03322

Belle rencontre, émotions partagées : Au revoir, Nati et Mélanie !

Silverio nous accompagne avec son cheval jusqu’à Limay où Segundino doit nous attendre avec un autre cheval pour nous conduire chez lui, dans la communauté de Huayllafara, sur l’autre versant de la vallée. La fête matinale nous a mis en retard, il fait très chaud et il va falloir monter durant au moins 2 heures une longue pente assez raide en plein soleil…Mais, changement de programme, Segundino n’est pas au rendez-vous et la communauté de Huyllafara étant accessible en voiture, il ne faut pas longtemps pour nous convaincre de renoncer à monter à pied et de prendre un taxi ! (je connais des randonneurs qui vont hurler en lisant cela, mais…)

Deuxième nuit dans la montagne chez Segundino et sa femme Irene. Segundino parle essentiellement le quechua et nous ne ferons qu’entr’apercevoir Irene qui n’a visiblement pas l’habitude des contacts avec les touristes…

Vue superbe sur la vallée.

3ème et dernier jour de rando

 DSC03335 Trajet en taxi jusqu’à Moray, un site inca fascinant : des terrasses concentriques ressemblant à des amphithéâtres : l’hypothèse retenue serait que les incas auraient utilisé ces cratères volcaniques bénéficiant d’un micro-climat pour faire des expérimentations agricoles.

De là, nous partons à pied jusqu’à Maras (environ 4 heures), il fait beau, le moral est au top…Une dernière petite côte bien raide avant d’arriver à Maras et subitement, un vent à décorner les boeufs….Apparaissent alors les salines : des milliers de puits salants servant depuis l’époque inca à l’extraction du sel provenant d’une petite source d’eau salée : cela dessine un paysage d’une beauté surprenante.

DSC03340 DSC03343

Merci à Detan pour ces trois jours !

Annick

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    Look to get something that is low-maintenance,
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    To know precisely how much you need to be able to water, it can be crucial to help know how much water the plants received coming from
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