9/11 – L’Homme qui parle aux baleines….

La météo est mauvaise, le vent souffle fort. Puerto Piramides – port d’où partent les bateaux pour l’observation des baleines – se trouve à 104km de Puerto Madryn. On nous dit qu’en raison du mauvais temps le port  est fermé sans savoir quand il ouvrira. Nous avons loué une voiture qui nous permettra de faire le tour de la péninsule afin de voir les autres animaux. La route suit le littoral et nous scrutons la mer au cas ou nous verrions une baleine. Effectivement dans la mer agitée à 150m du bord on aperçoit un jet d’eau. “Elle souffle,elle souffle…” s’écriait le capitaine Achab poursuivant Moby Dick, la baleine blanche responsable de la perte de sa jambe……C’est à ce roman, porté à l’écran dans les années 50, que je pense à ce moment. Se dire que l’on est si proche à cet instant de ces énormes animaux, qui ont une place si particulière dans notre imaginaire…

Arrivés à Puerto Piramides, confirmation de la fermeture du port. Peut être sera-t-il ouvert en fin d’après midi. Déçus car nous allons devoir revenir demain, nous faisons le tour de la péninsule. C’est plus de 200km de route en “Ripio” (route non asphaltée mais stabilisée par des cailloux). Au passage nous récupérons un stoppeur belge . Il voyage seul depuis 4 mois et campe dans la péninsule, où il n’y a rien et il y fait un vent glacial……Bon courage. Il nous dit avoir campé près du bord de mer et avoir été empêché de dormir par le bruit du souffle des baleines qui passaient très près. Veinard…Il parait que certaine nuit on les entend “chanter”

A la Punta Norte, nous voyons des éléphants et des lions de mer ainsi que des otaries et des petits pingouins de Magellan. C’est à cet endroit que viennent les Orques se repaitre en septembre octobre. J’ai vu à la télé le spectacle de ces baleines qui surgissent des vagues qui déferlent sur la grève pour capturer leur proie et retourner dans les profondeurs. C’est hallucinant. Nous ne verrons rien de tel….à mon grand regret.

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Sur le retour nous observons que le vent est tombé, le ciel gris a fait place au bleu. Nous interrogeons un garde du parc qui nous dit que le port est ouvert. Nous sommes à 75km du port, il est 16h45 et il faut arriver avant 18h. Au pays de Manuel Fangio ( légendaire champion du monde argentin de course automobile, enlevé par Castro pendant la révolution cubaine, pour l’anecdote), je ferai mieux, nous couvrons la distance dans un nuage de poussière en 1h.

Nous finissons après 2 échecs par trouver les 2 dernières places sur un petit bateau de 15 personnes. La mer s’est calmée. Le bateau nous conduit sur une zone où nous allons voir les baleines. Le capitaine du bateau arrête le moteur et là, le spectacle s’offre à nous à 20m une masse noire énorme sort de l’eau et nous montre son échine, et puis une autre , et puis encore une autre. Le bateau dérive lentement et les 3 baleines se rapprochent, on voit et on entend leur souffle. Bientôt elles sont à 5m du bateau sortant puis s’enfonçant dans l’eau claire. Le temps est superbe, c’est bientôt le coucher de soleil. Les baleines s‘approchent encore plus , elles passent sous le bateau en le frôlant sans le toucher et sortent de l’autre côté, c’est un spectacle extraordinaire. A un moment je me penche du bateau pour voir dans l’eau une masse énorme à 5 ou 6m de fond et la masse remonte lentement et là, la gueule de la baleine sort lentement de l’eau comme pour dire bonjour à 10cm du bord du bateau, Ma voisine a le temps de la caresser. Ensuite elle se retire lentement. C’est un moment d’une rare intensité émotionnelle. A voix basse, je les remercie d’être là…On se demande comment de telles masses peuvent se mouvoir avec autant de précision si près de l’embarcation. Jamais nous ne serons effrayés par leur présence. Et le spectacle durera plus d’une heure. Le capitaine nous dira que c’est tout à fait exceptionnel.

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Au loin nous apercevons d’autres baleines qui soufflent et sautent de l’eau. Nous ferons le retour au port accompagnés d’une baleine et de son baleineau. C’est tout simplement divin avec ce soleil couchant……..Merci encore dame nature

Bernard

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