10/11 – On repart vers les Andes !

Nous quittons la Péninsule de Valdes et ses baleines,  des souvenirs plein la tête, et repartons vers les Andes, à l’ouest : encore quelques heures de bus, trajet de nuit, mais maintenant nous y sommes habitués et  dormons sans problème !…Lever du jour sur les montagnes andines…

Arrivés à ESQUEL, nous trouvons une auberge de jeunesse bien sympathique où nous pouvons faire nos repas…Changement de température, il fait froid…Petite randonnée au lac  Zeta, pour nous mettre en jambes…A part un couple de français que nous croisons en chemin, la route n’est pas très fréquentée.

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Mais les possibilités de randonner sont limitées : il y a peu de sentiers et  nous arrivons un peu trop tôt dans la saison… Nous optons pour une excursion en bateau sur le Lago Puelo, situé dans le Parc National Los Alerces : bof, le côté très touristique de l’excursion ne nous a pas séduits, mais le lac était  bien beau ! Les Alerces – cyprès ou mélèzes de Patagonie -  sont de très hauts arbres dont certains atteignent 4000 ans !…Nous verrons un spécimen âgé de 2600 ans, ce qui est déjà un âge tout à fait respectable !…

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Nouveau trajet en bus pour remonter un peu plus au nord dans la Région des Lacs :

               . El Bolson est une petite ville où s’installèrent de nombreux hippies dans les années 1970. Sur le marché du samedi, nous rencontrons Felicitas, une jeune femme qui vend des confitures de framboises qu’elle confectionne. Elle apprend le français car elle a le projet d’aller l’an prochain rendre visite à sa sœur qui habite Genève. 

               . Bariloche (ou San Carlos de Bariloche), située le long du lac Nahuel Huapi,  est la station de ski phare pour les argentins . Certes les montagnes enneigées qui bordent le lac en font un cadre exceptionnel mais nous sommes un peu déçus par cette ville sans charme, et décidons d’en repartir rapidement.

                . Villa La Angostura :  nous élisons domicile pour plusieurs jours à l’auberge de jeunesse de cette petite ville au bord du lac Nahuel Huapi…Les conditions météo depuis El Bolson sont très mauvaises (froid, pluie et même neige sur les sommets…), il va falloir encore une fois réviser à la baisse nos projets de randonnées…Après consultation des prévisions météo, une lucarne d’éclaircie s’annonce et nous louons une voiture pour faire sur deux jours la très belle “ruta de los siete lagos” (route des sept lacs) : près de 350 kms sur une route le plus souvent non asphaltée, mais quel régal ! ces lacs glaciaires sont d’une grande beauté…Ici c’est le printemps,  les sommets encore enneigés, les genêts  en fleurs,…Pique-nique, et même sieste au bord du lac Traful…calme absolu…

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Tout à coup une dizaine de chevaux dévalent la colline pour venir se désaltérer…puis repartent tranquillement sans s’occuper de nous.

 

 

 

 

DSC03883 La saison de pêche vient tout juste de démarrer, et là, on s’aperçoit rapidement que l’on a affaire à des “pros” équipés jusqu’aux dents !…La truite se pêche “à la mouche”…

 

 

 

 

 

 DSC03921Nous faisons halte à San Martin de los Andes, jolie petite ville de montagne au bord du lago Lacar. Il est tard, nous cherchons un restaurant : un vieil argentin du coin nous indique – en français – un “bon restaurant” : pavé de saumon avec gratin de courgettes, suivi d’un délicieux crumble aux fruits rouge accompagné d’une glace à la vanille, humm !…cela nous change de la soupe en sachet et du jambon cru qui depuis quelques temps constituent l’essentiel de nos repas !

 

 

On comprend que les argentins soient nombreux à venir passer leurs vacances dans cette superbe région, que ce soit l’hiver pour y faire du ski ou l’été pour profiter de la pêche, de la randonnée à pied ou à cheval, ou des sports d’eaux vives…Les campings et les locations affichent alors complet ; de nombreux argentins aisés y possèdent aussi, en résidence secondaire, de cossus chalets entourés de verdure.

Retour à Villa la Angostura : la pluie se remet à tomber au moment où nous arrivons à l’auberge ! Nous retrouvons avec plaisir la sympathique équipe de l’auberge, mais apprécions beaucoup moins la musique qui y “sévit” du matin au soir…Ce n’est d’ailleurs pas spécifique à cette auberge : nous la retrouvons dans les bus, dans les cafés, les restos…Le silence, c’est bien aussi !…

DSC03864 Ah, j’allais oublier de vous dire que la Région des Lacs est spécialisée dans le chocolat ! Les rues débordent de magasins tous plus attirants les uns que les autres : comment résister ?

 

 

 

Annick

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