30/11 – Les glaciers côté argentin

El Calafate et le glacier Perito Moreno

Pour apprécier cette région, il parait qu’il faut visiter les sites dans l’ordre “du moins beau au plus beau”. Donc nous suivons ces conseils. Nous commençons par El Calafate, ville de 15000 habitants située au bord du Lago Argentino, le plus grand lac d’Argentine. Cette ville où se pressent beaucoup de touristes n’est pas particulièrement attrayante, on a l’impression d’être à Zermatt dit Julian. Certainement mais en moins huppée. Hôtel sympa, on vient nous chercher au terminal de bus, accueil chaleureux .

La gérante nous propose l’excursion du lendemain au glacier qui est le point d’orgue d’El Calafate. Nous prenons et le lendemain, appareils de photos, gants et pulls en laine polaire, bonnets nous voilà après 80km sur un catamaran qui glisse sur le lac en direction du glacier.

Nous commençons à apercevoir quelques glaçons qui dérivent et puis devant nous une paroi de 60m de haut barre le lac. Le catamaran se tient à distance. Nous avons déjà vu des glaciers de montagne. Mais là c’est autre chose. Nous sommes  à 200m au dessus du niveau de la mer et ce glacier se jette dans le lac après un parcours de 30kms sur 5kms de large. On entend craquer en permanence.

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Après la séance bateau le bus nous dépose un peu plus loin face au glacier. Un système de passerelles nous permet de voir le glacier dans toute sa largeur. Le temps brumeux ne nous laisse apercevoir qu’une partie de sa longueur.

DSC04004 A certains endroits des passerelles on est très près du front du glacier. Mais quelle beauté! Un dégradé de bleus au blanc; nous savons maintenant où Marjorelle a trouvé l’inspiration pour créer son bleu universel. Nous restons 3h à déambuler sur les passerelles pour admirer le Perito Moreno glacier mobile qui avance jusqu’à 2m par jour. C’est ainsi que tout le monde attend sur les passerelles le moment ou un sérac se fracasse dans le lac dans un grondement avec mini raz de marée.

 

De retour à l’hôtel nous décidons de partir dès le lendemain plus au nord pour El Chalten, second lieu du parc des Glaciares.

El Chalten – Enfin nous pouvons randonner !

DSC04128 Village de 600 habitants, près de la frontière chilienne,sorti de terre en 1985 par les argentins pour leur permettre de s’approprier les terres avant les chiliens. Village à l’abri du massif du Fitz Roy (3405 m) et du Cerro Torre. El Chalten est La Mecque de l’escalade argentine  où  alpinistes et andinistes viennent se mesurer au Cerro Torre et au Fitz Roy.Tous les véhicules qui rentrent dans le village doivent passer par le bureau des gardes du parc pour s’entendre donner les recommandations avant de se lancer sur les sentiers. Nous allons pouvoir enfin chausser nos chaussures de montagne qui croupissent dans le fond du sac depuis le Pérou.

DSC04035 Le lendemain après avoir fait provision du pique nique composé pour Julian essentiellement de carottes ( c’est fou ce qu’il croque de carottes par jour, un vrai lapin suisse! Mille excuses Julian..! mais c’est vrai! tu pourras t’indigner dans les commentaires) nous entamons la montée vers  le Fitz Roy, un pivert – d’une espèce inconnue de nous – est en plein travail.

Habituellement le temps couvert quasi permanent ne permet pas de voir le sommet des Torres. Nous n’échappons pas à la règle. Après une montée de 5h, nous sommes face au Fitz Roy qui ne montre pas sa partie sommitale, mais les lacs qui l’entourent et les glaciers sont une révélation.

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Le retour malgré la beauté des paysages sera un peu long. Au total environ 10h de marche, pour une mise en jambes c’est un peu rude !… Julian a quelque douleur au genou et nous, nous sommes rincés.

Le lendemain une petite promenade de 5h avec au bout un champ de pissenlits. Le temps est au beau et on peut apercevoir le Fitz Roy dans toute sa hauteur.

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C’est le 3ème jour que nous irons voir de près le Cerro Torre qui lui aussi se montre peu intégralement. Chance il fait grand bleu. Après 4h, c’est au bord d’un lac sur lequel dérivent des glaçons que nous ferons pique-nique (carottes au menu de Julian).

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 Nous ne cesserons de regarder ce grand pieu dressé devant nous et les montagnes environnantes. Nous sommes payés de nos efforts et avons beaucoup de chance avec le temps. Tout notre séjour à El Chalten aura été ensoleillé ce qui est tout à fait exceptionnel. Il nous faut quitter El Chalten pour rejoindre Puerto Natales de l’autre côté de la frontière au Chili. Pour cela nous devons retourner à El Calafate et prendre une correspondance au total 8h de bus. Avant de passer à la frontière, nous finissons toutes nos victuailles car il est strictement interdit de passer au Chili avec la moindre nourriture. Arrivée à Puerto Natales vers 22h30.

Bernard

 

14 042 réponses à “30/11 – Les glaciers côté argentin”

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