5/12 – Les Glaciers côté Chilien

Nous voici arrivés au Chili, à Puerto Natales. C’est le sud de la Patagonie côté chilien. On commence vraiment à sentir le climat du sud de l’Amérique. En arrivant à Puerto Natalès on a cru un instant que cette ville était au bord d’un lac bordé de montagnes enneigées. Et non c’est bien l’océan pacifique qui s’est faufilé jusque là au travers des milliers de petites îles qui composent le Sud du Chili, un peu comme si une main avait brisé un bout de terre en laissant les morceaux. A l’hôtel, le responsable nous informe des possibilités de nous rendre dans le Parc National Torres del Paine, le but de notre virée au Chili. Hélas c’est dimanche et rien ne fonctionne. Après réflexion, nous décidons tous les 3 de nous rendre dès lundi au parc, sans avoir réservé le 1er refuge. En effet il ne reste que peu de jours à Julian pour terminer son voyage. Le parc est à environ 120km.

DSC04187  Après le bus, un catamaran traverse un lac pour nous conduire au refuge. C’est bien la première fois que nous nous rendons dans un refuge de montagne en bateau….! Nous sommes un peu inquiets car le refuge est peut-être complet par ceux qui ont réservé. Je me précipite le premier pendant qu’Annick et Julian récupèrent les sacs, et à l’accueil bingo….l’hôtesse me dit “compléto” allez voir dehors si vous trouvez une tente. Je trouve  et réserve. Par acquis de conscience je retourne faire du charme à l’hôtesse qui succombe et me dit qu’elle a 3 lits en dortoir…..Balaise! non….! En fait il s’agit d’une annulation de dernière minute. Faut pas rêver!!!

 

1er jour : Départ dès 14h vers le glacier Grey. c’est 7h aller-retour et il faut être revenus avant 21h pour le repas du soir. Nous serons là à 20h30 . Un peu speed la ballade mais merveille, lac avec icebergs, glacier qui se jette dans le lac. Le genou de Julian tient et nous sommes bien las.

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2ème jour : Départ vers la Valle Frances. Journée splendide. Quelle chance! Le refuge nous a préparé le pique-nique. Il est 8h30. Cette randonnée est magnifique car après 3h le sentier monte avec de superbes glaciers de montagne, suspendus par miracle, et on entend les séracs se fracasser dans les pentes. Nous serons payés de nos efforts par la beauté des paysages. Mais alors c’est beaucoup de marche, au total presque 11h de marche effective. Et il ne faut pas trainer pour être rentrés avant 21H.

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3ème jour: repos car nous changeons de refuge en utilisant le bateau et le bus

DSC04236 4ème jour : Le temps est moyen pour aller voir les Torres del Paine. Petite ballade de 7h de marche avec un final de 300m de denivelé assez raides. Mais à l’arrivée le ciel est dégagé comme pour nous accueillir…….. regardez les photos c’est mieux qu’un commentaire.

 

Hier et aujourd’hui nous avons vu beaucoup d’oiseaux. Une petite pensée pour Jacqueline et Michel Besnard, grands amateurs d’oiseaux. (A ce propos, il y a une erreur dans l’article précédent : l’oiseau sur la photo est un pic-vert de Magellan, et non un pivert…)

 

 

DSC04274  Le soir retour à Puerto Natales un peu tardivement. Nous trouverons une Parillada (resto où l’on mange des grillades) pour fêter nos exploits et le dernier jour pour Julian qui part demain. Au fait, c’est une blague il ne mange pas que des carottes……il mange aussi des fruits secs. Le lendemain on se sépare après presque 2 semaines passées à partager. Voilà une rencontre qui nous aura marqué et dont nous gardons un souvenir ému. Merci à toi, Julian. Nous aurions continué avec plaisir le chemin commun. Quant à nous nous allons rester quelques jours à Puerto Natales.

Cette ville est constituée d’habitations basses qui paraissent bien légères pour affronter les hivers rigoureux qui sévissent. Les parois et les toits sont faits de tôle et d’une mince épaisseur. Les peintures sont assez diverses comme s’il fallait donner une allure un peu gaie dans cette univers souvent gris.

DSC04275  DSC04281

Avant de quitter Puerto Natales, qui finalement nous a plu pour ce qu’elle est, un petit port au bord du pacifique à l’intérieur des terres, nous faisons un soir une Cabalgatas ‘(un promenade à cheval) C’est la fin de la journée, notre balade commence par le bord de mer.

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Devant nous des cygnes majestueux et puis une dizaine de flamants de rose prennent leur envol dans un ciel tourmenté. Qué Bueno!!! Es muy lindo!!  et puis la balade se poursuit dans la pampa, les chevaux dociles obéissent. Le vent nous glace le visage. Nous sommes 3 avec le guide qui parle anglais et espagnol. C’est un moment de pur bonheur. Se prendre pour des Gauchos…….. Et puis c’est le retour à El Calafate pour prendre l’avion. Destination Ushuaia, le bout du monde puisque la dernière ville avant le pôle sud. nous sommes impatients d’y être

Bernard

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