4/03 : de HANOI à l’île de CAT BA en passant par la BAIE d’ALONG

  • Croisière dans la baie d’Along : une croisière un peu spéciale !…

Après avoir vérifié l’état de nos comptes, nous décidons de nous offrir une croisière “de luxe” dans la baie d’ Along. Nous passons par une agence recommandée par Lonely Planet pour son sérieux et la qualité de ses services.

Après quelques heures de bus au départ de Hanoï pour rejoindre la ville d’ Along, nous embarquons en début d’après_midi sur le Bhaya, une superbe jonque aux voiles couleur ocre. Peu de temps après avoir levé l’ancre, nous avons le sentiment d’avoir changé de monde tant la beauté des lieux est saisissante. La baie d’ Along, Inscrite depuis 1994 au patrimoine mondial de l’ Unesco, est située dans le golfe du Tonkin et compte deux mille îles ( Bernard croyait qu’il y en avait quelques dizaines…) nous apercevons de petites criques, des grottes, le temps un peu brumeux amplifie le caractère mystérieux, poétique de l’endroit, le Bhaya glisse sans bruit sur une mer d’huile…

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Déjeuner à bord, prise de possession de notre chambre…Un groupe d’une vingtaine de français – pas des plus jeunes ! – sont en voyage organisé : en 15 jours, Laos, Cambodge, Viet Nam, ils ont la santé ! Bernard devra écouter patiemment un monsieur qui énumère tous les pays qu’il a “faits” depuis qu’il est en retraite…Nous échangeons un peu avec un couple d’américains, puis plus longuement avec un australien originaire de Malaisie qui nous donne des infos intéressantes pour la suite de notre voyage.

Le bateau ayant jeté l’ancre, nous nous offrons même une petite balade en solitaires sur un canoe (mon bras droit est toujours faiblard,  c’est surtout Bernard qui rame !)

DSCN6556 Peu avant le repas du soir, alors que Bernard est sous la douche, mon téléphone sonne,  c’est un SMS de Nathalie (la fille de Bernard) : “La petite Maëlle est née ! Tout le monde se porte très bien !”.( Bernard devait le pressentir car depuis le matin, il m’avait demandé à plusieurs reprises de vérifier les messages reçus sur mon téléphone). Grand moment de bonheur, vous vous en doutez !…Nous fêtons cela au champagne. Bien sûr, nous aurions préféré partager ce moment avec la famille, mais heureusement le téléphone et internet atténuent la distance : dès le lendemain, Nathalie nous envoie une photo de Maëlle par téléphone et dès notre retour à Hanoï quelques jours plus tard, nous pourrons voir sur notre écran la petite famille au complet !

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Et pour clore cette merveilleuse journée, coucher de soleil dans la Baie d’ Along : que demander de plus ?

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Le lendemain, lever à l’aube pour assister au lever du jour, tandis que sur le pont, certains suivent un cours de “Taï chi” (gymnastique d’origine chinoise). Nous longeons des villages flottants de pêcheurs dont la vie doit être rude.

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DSC05488 Puis visite de la grotte de Hang Sung Sot : là encore, nous sommes éblouis par ce que la nature nous offre, j’ai l’impression d’être dans les décors fantasmagoriques d’une bande dessinée ou d’un film de science fiction, les éclairages mettent bien en valeur les roches sculptées par les eaux et le temps…Nous essayons de faire abstraction de la guide qui veut à tout prix nous dire quelles formes ou représentations nous devons y voir !

 

 

C’est à partir de ce moment que l’organisation de notre croisière commence à “foirer”. Dans un premier temps un bateau devait venir nous récupérer sur le Bhaya pour nous emmener dans la baie de Lan Ha puis sur l’île de Cat Ba où nous devons passer notre seconde nuit car les passagers du Bhaya rentrent le jour même sur Hanoï. Après plusieurs ordres et contre-ordres, on nous demande de revenir avec le Bhaya à Along où nous devrons attendre un deuxième bateau. Attente, recherche vaine d’informations, démarche téléphonique auprès de l’agence avec laquelle nous avons contracté, bref nous finissons tout de même par nous retrouver sur ce deuxième bateau qui va dans la baie de Lan Ha, tout aussi belle que la baie d’ Along. Le bateau est plus petit, moins luxueux, mais l’ambiance y est plus jeune et plus décontractée ce qui nous convient bien. Cependant nos péripéties ne s’arrêtent pas là : ce bateau ne va pas sur l’île de Cat Ba ! Après une sortie en canoë, nous quittons l’équipe de passagers pour monter sur un nouveau bateau ! Il est déjà 17 heures et nous aurions dû arriver vers midi à l’ Ocean beach Resort, un hôtel situé en bord de plage sur un petit îlot au large de Cat Ba…Nous  sommes les deux seuls passagers de ce bateau que l’on devrait plutôt qualifier de “rafiot” : sièges cassés, trous dans le plancher pourri, il n’y a plus qu’à espérer que le moteur tienne bon !

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Dès que nous nous éloignons de la baie de Lan Ha, la mer commence à se former, le bateau penche, les chaises glissent, la théière et les tasses tombent, faisant sortir de sa torpeur le matelot ! Plus ça va, plus les creux des vagues sont importants. Le jour qui commence à baisser renforce l’ambiance un peu inquiétante de cette traversée, mais c’est aussi très beau ! Enfin, après 1h30 de navigation houleuse, nous arrivons près des côtes de Cat Ba. Et là, vous n’allez peut-être pas nous croire, mais le bateau ne peut accoster sur le petit îlot où nous devons passer la nuit !

DSC05507 Et c’est sur un radeau de bambou(si, si !), à la nuit tombée, que nous finissons notre traversée !!! Pour clore le tout, le pied de Bernard passe au travers d’une latte de bambou au moment d’accoster, plus de peur que de mal, mais il y a comme ça des journées où l’on se dit que l’on aurait peut-être mieux fait de rester couchés !!!

 

 

P1010144 A l’Ocean Beach Resort, nous avons le plaisir de retrouver Annie et Aurélien, un jeune couple avec qui nous avions sympathisé lors de notre trajet en bus entre Hanoï et Along. Annie est québécoise et Aurélien est français mais vit au Québec depuis plusieurs années. Le soir plusieurs radeaux de bambou échouent en morceaux sur la plage, démontés par la violence de la mer…

 

Notre chambre donne sur la plage et nous nous endormons, bercés par le bruit des vagues. Le lendemain le temps est gris, nous devons repartir à midi, tant pis pour la matinée plage et transat !

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  • La baie d’Along terrestre

On surnomme ainsi le paysage de formations karstiques qui émergent au milieu de rizières situées à Tam Coc, dans les environs de Ninh Binh (environ 100 kms au sud de Hanoï). On les découvre au travers d’une balade en barque sur 2 kms le long d’une rivière .  C’est un endroit très touristique, aussi, suivant les conseils de notre précieux Lonely Planet, nous arrivons la veille de manière à pouvoir faire la visite de bonne heure avant l’arrivée des cars de touristes. Nous souhaitons partir à 7 heures mais notre guide nous convainc de partir à 8 heures seulement. Au petit matin, il pleut, et lorsque nous arrivons à l’endroit où attendent les embarcations, nous nous retrouvons au milieu d’un flot d’au moins 300 collégiens : le 8 mars, journée de la femme, est ici férié et les collégiens sont de sortie, c’est bien notre veine ! La balade au fil de l’eau perd de son charme au milieu des cris et plaisanteries des enfants qui nous regardent d’un air étonné et nous interpellent en riant…C’est tout de même un spectacle étonnant de voir ces femmes qui rament adroitement avec leurs pieds tandis que leurs mains sont occupées à  tricoter ou à éplucher  fruits ou légumes !!!

  • Hanoï

De retour à Hanoï, nous essayons en pure perte de nous faire rembourser une partie de la croisière qui ne s’est pas déroulée comme prévu…

Et puisque les “emm…..” arrivent souvent en série, lorsque nous récupérons nos sacs à dos que nous avions laissés en consigne à l’hôtel, je découvre que la poche du dessus ainsi que le sac qui enveloppait mon sac à dos ont été mangés par un rongeur !!! La patronne de l’hôtel me reproche d’avoir laissé de la nourriture dans mon sac, et lorsque je lui réponds que je ne pouvais pas imaginer qu’il y avait des rats dans son hôtel, elle me dit “mais, il y en a partout dans le quartier !”. Moi qui ai la phobie de ces bestioles, me voilà tout à fait rassérénée!!!…( nous en verrons même dans un café à l’aéroport de Hanoï…). Mes sacs seront tout de même bien réparés et la réparation prise en charge par l’hôtel…

Le 9 mars au soir, nous rejoignons à l’aéroport  Annie, Cathy et Marie-Mad qui repartent vers la France. Merci à Annie qui se retrouve avec un sac plein  de “quelques affaires qui nous encombraient” !

Nous retrouvons Hanoï et sa circulation infernale, son bruit continuel, ses haut-parleurs qui – comme dans de nombreuses villes au Viet Nam – hurlent dès 6 heures du matin pour – selon la version officielle relayée par un guide – “réveiller les gens qui doivent partir au travail “ ou “donner des informations sur la culture du riz” ou “dire aux habitants qu’ils doivent nettoyer leurs trottoirs” ou que sais-je encore ! et bien sûr, nous sommes censés y croire sans plus nous poser de questions !!!

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Dans la vieille ville, les rues portent des noms aux significations amusantes, telles que la rue Bat Dan (rue des bols en bois), la rue Bat Su (rue des bols de faïence), la rue Cha Ca (rue du poisson grillé) ou encore la rue Hai Tuong (rue des sandales) etc…Les rues grouillent de petits vendeurs ambulants portant de lourdes charges sur une épaule, il est possible de manger dans la rue pour très peu cher, assis sur des petites chaises d’enfants en plastique …Les “pousse-pousse” hèlent les clients potentiels…Il y a aussi bien sûr des quartiers plus chics.

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Nous ne visiterons en fait pas beaucoup Hanoï. Nous sommes fatigués du harcèlement envers  les touristes, au point que nous envisageons même de quitter le Viet Nam sans aller dans les provinces du nord. Plusieurs voyageurs que nous avons rencontrés et qui, comme nous, voyagent sans passer par un “tour opérateur” éprouvent le même sentiment. Nous devons être en permanence sur nos gardes. Il faudrait pouvoir rencontrer des vietnamiens en dehors de la sphère commerciale. Peut-être aussi commençons-nous à sentir la fatigue accumulée au bout de bientôt 7 mois de voyage ?

Nous décidons malgré tout de partir au nord, vers Sapa et ensuite passer la frontière pour gagner le Laos où tout le monde nous dit que c’est beaucoup plus “cool”.

Annick

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    From preparing your totes properly and getting on your air travel to exchanging your hard earned dollars and finding the right locations to enjoy and rest overseas, travelling can quickly become a quite difficult endeavor. Be sure you approach traveling with the knowledge needed to pull your holiday off with no hitch. Check out this write-up to find out how. When traveling, vacation as light as is possible. If you can, stay away from looking at baggage. This will aid speed points up when you’re receiving off and on airplanes. The less you take with you, the a lot less chance you possess of something obtaining shed or damaged in transit. Whenever you can, try and journey with merely a have-on case. Review high on the region you are likely to and acquire measures to safeguard on your own from criminal offense. Some traveler regions have specially higher burglary rates. It is essential to understand about these matters before going. You will find frequently straightforward safeguards it is possible to take to make on your own a smaller focus on. If you’re concerned about owning your pockets chosen although you’re on vacation, consider sewing a compact concealed budget in to the inside of your trousers to help keep your money and bank cards in. In this way you won’t need to bother about them getting swiped by an anxious pickpocket. You may also do the same on the inside of a bag, if you’ll be transporting a single. If you’re concered about owning your pockets picked out although you’re on vacation, try sewing a tiny concealed wallet into the inside of your pants to maintain your money and bank cards in. By doing this you won’t need to bother about them simply being swiped by an excited pickpocket. You can even do exactly the same thing within a travelling bag, if you’ll be hauling one. Long driving trips could be enjoyable and cost-effective, but the cost of quitting for foods every couple of hours will prove to add up, especially for a family. If you are intending a longish auto getaway, make sure you have plenty of auto food items offered in improve. You could possibly get away with skipping the hourlong lunch time cease, that will not simply help you save money, but will get you to your location quicker. For those who have an additional adult in the vehicle, that person serves as « lunchmaker, » passing about sandwiches, decreasing fresh fruits, and making sure everyone receives their midday dinner on the streets. Change your routine in your destinations timezone a couple of days before leaving. If you will certainly be going to a location in which morning hours is about three several hours earlier than you are used to, establish your alarm to begin the regimen early on. Get to bed furniture previously to suit the timezone as well and you may acclimate your whole body for the routine. Should your vacation programs require having a red-colored-eyes airline flight, eat your dinner in the air-port and then go on a capsule to help you your self sleep at night soon after your flight foliage for the location. Make sure that you only take the sleep at night assist after you are within the air. If you take it prior to then, you may have problems in the event the airplane has to go back to the door. Those two techniques can assist you get the most from a challenging flight. Each traveler should be aware of right now that joking around isn’t the brightest course of action although waiting in balance in and security lines any longer. Airport terminal workers are merely way too worried about terrorism to take cracks softly. Advancement with these lines politely and also in a businesslike way. You’re prone to be taken care of consequently. As you can see through the past list of ideas, travelling about can really be a fulfilling expertise in your daily life. It requires a lot of research, paperwork, and many asking them questions but it is all worthwhile in the end to have a memorable and satisfying journey.

  38. On a trip is often related to rest, a trip can bring on lots of stress. From stressing about motel remains to handling arriving at your destination, it at times appears like every aspect of traveling is overpowering. This post will provide you with tips on how to approach these challenges and appreciate your time and energy out. If you wish to save money on travel, be adaptable while you are reserving your plane tickets. Often, less expensive costs is available in case you are not committed to a specific departure and appearance time. Moreover, occasionally costs are cheaper when you travel in a nearby city instead of the significant a single in the community. Generally in most pieces of the world, it is actually regarded as excellent etiquette to inquire somebody for approval when using their photo. Many people will become extremely offended if you take their image with out inquiring, which could even cause abuse. It is better to merely receive their permission initial than danger offense. Load your own personal pillow. In case you have sleep problems out of the house, attempt delivering your very own pillow along. A lot of people find it hard to sleep at night within a bed that isn’t their particular. Having a familiarized cushion beneath your brain can make a remarkably significant difference. It could possibly mean the real difference in between sleepless times and becoming nicely rested for one more day time filled with activities. Should you be concerned about flying with a sizable carry-on case, plan in advance. Airlines usually table in groups of five to ten series, so select a seat in row 11 or 21, not row 19. Also, right after the flight phone calls the seating prohibit in front of you, go get in series. Using this method you’re waiting at the front rather than the back again. Travelling doesn’t must be a difficult issue when you know how you can method it. Take time to study useful posts like these and your after that trip could be organized minus the usual hassle. If you’re ready to spend time and concentrate on your journey strategies, you could do the messy work in the beginning and enjoy a get worried-cost-free holiday.

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  43. You’ve tried it. You may have booked that vacation that you have usually wanted. That’s excellent! Or perhaps it’s a getaway that is related to function or loved ones business. You almost certainly have a lot of questions on how to proceed, what to load, etc. Allow me to share some tips that can help you begin with your touring ideas. Keep a pleased attitude on a trip. Issues will get rather stressed at large airports. Tempers work substantial. The people who job there typically have a hard time of points. Trying to keep a confident manner with regards to you, at the very least outwardly, will more than likely improve your experience. A negative perspective will rarely get you anywhere. So as to make probably the most of traveling in another country, make an effort to strategy at the very least a couple of routines that aren’t listed in traveler information guides or blogs. You can do this by finding information and facts created for and created by natives, be it from classifieds, blogs or men and women on youtube. Moving beyond the visitor bubble can certainly make your journey that much a lot more exciting and enjoyable. Constantly enable a person know when you plan traveling. Although unforeseen travels and impulsive journey might appear to be a wise idea during the time, it is not so excellent if something goes awry. Allowing a colleague, loved one or neighbors know you will be removed and where you stand going is always a good strategy. Make contact with that individual when you get to your location. Let them know when you will end up coming home. You will be glad you did. Stay with boiled or bottled water if you traveling. It does not matter when you are traveling half way throughout the world or maybe taking a day time getaway in your status. Frequently your stomach will not react properly to different drinking water in fact it is better to be safe than sorry! For an essential basic safety evaluate before making on a journey you need to usually notify a detailed friend or family member whenever they plan on returning as well as other essential information about the getaway. As a result one is ensuring that someone will be aware of anything is improper when no person turns up around the expected particular date. Now you need to be considerably more well prepared in relation to vacationing. You ought to now be a specialist on how to proceed and what things to package for your trips! The tips that had been provided ought to enable you to vacation wiser and have a a lot more pleasant time.

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  45. Erin Wisener dit :

    Planing a trip to new locations is one of the most pleasurable encounters of daily life. You get to expertise various customs, countries, areas. Travelling connects one to men and women and events which you would not have knowledgeable normally. Even so, prior to anyone travels, there are a few things they must keep in mind. The advice on this page will tell you every little thing you need to understand before going through the community. When you get to a brand new hotel room, allow the warm water run inside the shower area for the little while. Even best of hotels may be fairly messy. Allowing the new water manage will help kill spores that the standard washing probably have skipped. You aren’t paying for the water expenses inside the room anyway. When your journey finances are fairly stretchy, look at splurging in such a way you usually wouldn’t. Spoil your small. An uncharacteristically lavish spending can constitute the unforgettable key of the holiday. It is simply a simple fact that a few of the very best professional services, most exciting encounters and many remarkable scenery cost a great little funds. With a getaway, engage oneself by taking advantage of a few of them. Getting mindful about buys on a trip will assist you to by way of customs. Remember what you acquire in your vacation should move through customs once you return home so exercise extreme care if you notice streets vendors in foreign countries or another dealers who could be providing counterfeit or unsafe mementos you will need to surrender later on. In case you are going with dogs, be sure to brush your furry friend prior to getting into the car. This will help to lower the level of head of hair that you need to take care of. Also, try and make plans by identifying a number of places to quit for potty breaks. Your pet dog should stretch and relieve him self every couple of several hours. When you have many concerns for a motel, refer to them as during the night. Most major accommodations maintain their front side work desk staffed 24 / 7. In case you have questions regarding scheduling your room or specific needs you wish to go over, getting in touch with late at night ensures that you are less probably be cut off for the attendant to tend to a guest. Being sure that your holiday moves away with no hitch and that you possess a great time, regardless of if your vacation is perfect for business or traveling is the purpose of this informative article. Should you implement everything you read through right here you should have a fantastic, quiet, uneventful journey the very next time you depart community.

  46. Going abroad dit :

    On a trip is commonly associated with pleasure, a visit may bring on plenty of pressure. From worrying about motel keeps to working with reaching your spot, it at times seems as if every aspect of traveling is overpowering. This short article will give you tips on how to deal with individuals tensions and revel in your time and effort apart. By going on the net you can gain access to a substantial amount of information in relation to in which the first is traveling and about the area one is going. Exploring nearby destinations will help a single map out their trip before it even starts. Having a prepare into position and knowledge about the location can result in a far more enjoyable experience. In case you are driving a poorer country, think about getting a large woven sack, like the kind employed to move potatoes or any other veggies. Place your bag into this sack, and is particularly protected from airborne dirt and dust, insects, and dampness. Additionally, it nicely camouflages your possesions against burglars, as they will see a travelling bag of farm goods rather than tourist’s travelling bag. To conserve power when you are traveling in hilly or mountainous locations, consider taking a taxi on the highest reason for the town or place you’re checking out, then go walking lower. This enables you to view the complete village, which includes any mountain vistas, without needing to include too much altitude and sporting oneself out. To make a decision if you need to purchase journey insurance coverage you need to check out what may already be covered. A lot of homeowner insurance policies can have riders that would include theft of residence even when you are traveling so getting further would have been a waste materials of money for your insurance. In case you are planing a trip to Mexico or the Caribbean in the course of hurricane time of year, it’s a sensible concept to acquire travel insurance plan, if it’s within your budget. However, once a hurricane forewarning is predict, it’s too late to get insurance coverage, so make sure you get it back then which you guide your trip. For the price, you can obtain « Terminate at all »� insurance coverage that permits you to stop your trip for motives not currently given within your policy. Making sure you are applying the maximum amount of of the understanding you learned in this article is essential to traveling with accomplishment. The best thing to be aware of is the fact that this short article by yourself isn’t moving to provide every one of the information and facts you have to know, continue to keep keeping an eye out for new ideas in order to travel with ease in the foreseeable future.

  47. Even though you seem like you might be an authority with regards to vacation, there are always a lot more points to discover. That is certainly in which the adhering to report is important. You will end up offered information that you could take on the following getaway, whether it be for enterprise or pleasure. Be aware of your intution when traveling. In case a certain shop, individual, or area gives you « awful vibes », just move on. Your intuition might be suggesting something you haven’t purposely observed. Regardless of whether you’re incorrect, it’s easier to be secure than sorry when it comes to your safety. Take a look at end user evaluations. The experience of other people who have traveled to the very same spot may be far more beneficial compared to biased sales info from the destination by itself. Also, check out visitor-offered photos, which will be far more true and fewer doctored in comparison to the professional photos. Be sure to search for the latest reviews, and find ones authored by people getting comparable getaway must your very own. When investing in to your hotel, check your security alarm. One never knows what the individual who was keeping yourself there very last might have possessed it set up to. Ensure you look at the security alarm time clock and ensure it’s set up for a while that is useful for you, usually, you might find oneself away and off to a terrible begin your getaway. Stay relaxed and composed. Don’t spend your time and effort looking your house for connect adapters, a traveling pillow, or maybe your toiletries. Get a storage container to aid coordinate everything that relates to traveling. It’s much better when you can acquire one that suits beneath your bed or that could be hidden somewhere else quickly. As previously mentioned, for several folks, travelling can be a enthusiasm and very best hobby. There is no end for the spots it is possible to explore. Every time you vacation, you may experience new stuff. Use what you’ve just learned, making traveling simple and easy fun.

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