11/3 – On va frôler la Chine

La Chine ne fait pas partie des pays que nous traverserons dans notre tour du monde. De nombreux voyageurs rencontrés et ayant séjourné dans ce pays, se sont étonnés de notre choix. En effet, quand on décide de faire le tour du monde, il est, bien sûr, impossible de voir tous les pays, de plus notre conception du voyage  consiste à prendre le temps de découvrir le plus possible un pays en y restant assez longtemps plutôt que de faire “ un tableau” de chasse en alignant les contrées. La Chine est un véritable continent qui nécessite d’y rester beaucoup de temps. Un jour peut-être……..

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  • De Hanoi à Lao Cai par le train de nuit

Donc nous prenons le train de nuit depuis Hanoi vers Lao Cai, dernière ville avant la frontière chinoise. Train avec 4 couchettes par compartiment, tout en bois. Couchettes molles ou couchettes dures ? nous avons choisi les molles car les dures sont vraiment dures, c’est carrément sur la planche!!! Dans le train nous partageons le compartiment avec un jeune couple d’américains dont le garçon est venu dans cette région, composée de 30% de catholiques, pour évangéliser la population avec un prêtre américo-vietnamien. A notre question sur l’attitude des autorités, il nous répond que ce n’est pas très bien vu mais comme ils laissent des dollars…… A 5h30 arrivée à Lao Cai. Nous sortons du train avec 30 minutes d’avance, à moitié endormis. Sur le quai, une horde de rabatteurs (totalement réveillés, eux !) essaie de nous coller dans un de leurs minibus qui vont vers Sapa, ancienne station climatique de la période française, au nord ouest, destination habituelle des touristes. Et nous, nous avons choisi d’aller à Bac Ha, au nord –est, avec un bus local qu’il faut aller chercher au terminal, situé à presque 2Km. Nous tentons de prendre un taxi, mais au bout de 15 minutes, nous renonçons car les chauffeurs voudraient bien nous emmener ailleurs. Pénible…..Donc nous faisons le trajet à pied, avec nos sacs sur le dos bien sûr ! Nous ne trouverons pas de terminal et c’est une dame en moto qui s’arrête et nous indique l’arrêt du bus que nous attendrons 1 bonne heure en buvant un thé,sur le bord du trottoir, à une petite échoppe.

  • De Lao Cai à Bac Ha en bus

Le bus local est vraiment “local” Nous avons la chance d’avoir 2 places assises car le trajet dure 2 heures. Le bus se remplit au fur et à mesure du voyage. Et bien rempli! car il faut sortir par les fenêtres aux arrêts. Dans le bus, tout le monde garde son calme. Il se dégage une petite odeur très, très “ rustique” dirons nous……Arrivés à Bac Ha, il nous faut enjamber les sièges pour descendre. Mais enfin nous y sommes, c’était pas gagné d’avance!

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  • La petite ville de Bac Ha

Bac Ha, un peu plus de 7000 habitants, est située au nord-ouest du pays. Cette région, montagneuse et peu habitée, abrite ce que l’on appelle des minorités ethniques, car les vietnamiens se sont tenus à l’écart de cette zone tampon avec la Chine peuplée de Hmongs noirs ( parce que vêtus de noir) et  Hmongs fleurs ( parce que portant des vêtements colorés) A cette saison il fait un peu frais, nous devons ressortir notre petite laine polaire, restée dans nos sacs depuis la Patagonie (fin décembre). Ce qui nous frappe c’est le calme . Nous en avions besoin. Depuis 3 semaines nous avons presque tous les jours été exposés à l’effervescence qui caractérise les villes que nous avons traversées jusqu’ici. A part le traditionnel haut-parleur public, qui jacte dès 6h le matin, nous apprécions de ne plus entendre les moteurs et Klaxons des 2 roues.

Le lendemain nous faisons un trek, autour de Bac Ha avec Thong pour guide. Indispensable car il y a de nombreux sentiers, mais aucune indication. Nous traversons des villages Hmongs et des paysages merveilleux où se côtoient végétation luxuriante et culture en terrasse.

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DSC05527 Visite de l’école, d’une maison. Je dois dire que cela ne m’emballe pas d’aller voir les gens dans le cadre d’une excursion. Bien souvent ils reçoivent de l’argent pour assurer l’accueil ou tentent de vous vendre quelque chose, et l’authenticité fait défaut à ces instants où des personnes que tout éloigne se rencontrent pour un regard, un sourire qui témoignent de la même humanité. Bon! faut faire avec…

Le soir au resto, rencontre avec un couple de la région de Bordeaux. Elle, Hélène, native d’Indochine, qu’elle a dû quitter dans des circonstances tragiques, sans l’avoir choisi ,revient pour la première fois, à la soixantaine, revoir ce pays qu’elle n’a cessé d’aimer. Elle n’avait pas souhaité ou osé le faire avant par crainte d’y être mal accueillie. Et pourtant, nous dit elle, dès qu’elle fait savoir ses origines, les visages s’éclairent et on lui réserve toutes sortes d’attentions et de gentillesses. On l’accueille comme quelqu’un qui revient chez elle. Evidemment cette conversation résonne dans ma tête, en pensant à ce voyage fait en octobre 2008 en Algérie avec, mon frère, son épouse, leur fille et Annick. C’était, pour eux, la première fois qu’il retournaient dans notre pays natal, n’est-ce pas Jean, Gisèle, Hélène ? Et quel bonheur! Bon revenons à Bac ha…

  • Le marché traditionnel de Can Cau

Le lendemain nous avons prévu d’aller à Can Cau, petit village à 25km, où se tient le marché hebdomadaire. Les habitants des environs, en costumes traditionnel, se retrouvent pour acheter ou vendre leurs produits. Nous envisagions de louer une moto pour faire le trajet; mais au matin il fait frisquet, nous ne sommes pas équipés. Comment faire pour y aller quand même ? Il y a bien un bus local, on a déjà donné….Annick voyant un groupe de 5 personnes devant un minibus qui envisageaient d’aller au marché de Can Cau, leur demande l’autorisation de nous joindre à eux. C’est spontanément OK. Il s’agit de Tu (prononcer Tou), une vietnamienne avec son mari Barry, anglais, vivant à Genève, accompagnés de Linh- la fille de Tu – et d’une amie, Véronique, journaliste à l’AFP en retraite. Ils ont loué ce minibus avec chauffeur et guide pour visiter la région Nord que Tu ne connaissait pas. Nous voilà à ce marché, haut en couleur. On y trouve beaucoup de produits artisanaux, linges, tissages, nourriture, bêtes sur pieds etc….Et surtout des Hmongs avec des coiffes et habits colorés. De très beaux enfants. Je ne sais si cela tient à leurs yeux bridés mais je trouve que les enfants asiatiques sont très jolis.

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De retour à Bac Ha, Tu nous propose de nous joindre à eux pour la suite de leur voyage vers le nord-est. Cela change nos projets et après quelques minutes de réflexion nous répondons positivement. Et voilà le voyage comme on l’aime, fait d’imprévus et de belles rencontres, celle-ci en sera une. Nous quittons Bac Ha en laissant Barry qui doit rentrer à Nha Trang, où il donne des cours d’anglais.

La route serpente dans la montagne, où les cultures en terrasse sculptent le paysage. Le bitume fait bientôt place à de la terre, on roule lentement, on rencontre personne ou presque et pourtant à un arrêt, sortis d’on ne sait où, un attroupement souriant se fait autour de nous.

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Chaque arrêt est l’occasion d’en apprendre un peu plus sur nos compagnes de voyage. Véronique nous donne moult commentaires car son métier de journaliste l’a amenée à couvrir la guerre entre le Nord et le Sud du Viet Nam ; il est très peu d’endroits du globe qui lui soient inconnus mais le Viet Nam garde une place de choix dans son cœur. Ce n’est quand même pas tous les jours que l’on peut faire ce genre de rencontre !…Nous en apprenons aussi un peu plus sur le fonctionnement de la Croix rouge dont Linh est une déléguée permanente.

Le soir nous faisons halte dans un petit hôtel. Et là commence , en particulier pour Tu – car c’est elle qui, parlant le vietnamien,fait l’interface -  le début des ennuis, car le chauffeur, estimant ne pas être assez payé, malgré l’accord de départ, exige pour aller à l’étape du lendemain une rallonge ! Dans un premier temps tout le monde est contre. Le lendemain nous faisons route vers Ha Giang, le chauffeur fait la tronche. Nous devions aller plus au Nord, mais les autorités locales nous imposent de prendre un permis accompagné d’un guide pour la “sécurité” dans cette zone paisible et de passer par une agence; bref pour continuer il faut “arroser” toute une filière. Tu est très déçue. Nous aussi mais pas trop surpris, et même un peu réconfortés. Car voilà, depuis quelques semaines, nous avons du mal à supporter d’être la cible quasi quotidienne de ces embrouilles et nous nous demandions si  la fatigue du voyage nous rendait moins tolérants. Nous pensions que les personnes parlant le vietnamien étaient peut-être davantage épargnées.

  • Le petit village de Tha

Le chauffeur sachant qu’on n’irait pas plus loin retrouve le sourire et nous emmène dans un petit village, entouré de rizières, non touristique mais combien accueillant. Toutes les maisons sont construites sur pilotis avec une surface de plus de 120m2, toit en feuilles de bananier. Des femmes pieds nus plantent du riz dans l’eau,  elles rient de nous voir là. Echange de gestes amicaux et sourires. Quelle fraicheur!!! Une dame quitte les travaux pour nous inviter à prendre le thé dans sa maison. Moment inoubliable car les regards ont remplacé les mots et c’était presque suffisant. A la sortie je suis interpellé par un autre villageois pour prendre le thé encore, et puis un autre…

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Nous quittons Tha, c’est le nom de ce village, le cœur gai. Nous avons pu voir là une autre facette du Vietnam……

  • Retour à Hanoi

Le lendemain, après de nouvelles exigences du chauffeur, le groupe décide de s’en séparer et de rentrer à Hanoi avec un autre minibus privé, qui ne nous mènera que la moitié du trajet pour nous transférer dans un bus local. Bien sûr ce n’était pas prévu ainsi ! Nous arrivons à Hanoi où Tu nous a trouvé un hôtel très sympa dans le quartier de la cathédrale ( nous recommandons ce quartier plutôt que celui des touristes dans la vieille ville) Je ne sais si Tu lira ces quelques lignes, sa modestie dût-elle en souffrir, je dois dire que nous avons aimé être pendant ces 3 jours à ses côtés. Nous avons apprécié chez ce petit bout de femme, la gentillesse, la douceur, les éclats de rire, qui révèlent toute l’énergie, la détermination du personnage. Elle nous a confié des bouts de son étonnant et parfois douloureux parcours. Merci Tu, bonne chance pour tes projets avec Barry !…

Avant de partir, nous visitons le temple de la littérature, havre de paix datant de 1070 , dédié à Confucius afin d’honorer les lettrés et les grands écrivains.

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Demain 17/3, nous quittons ce pays et prenons l’avion pour Luang Prabang au Laos.

Bernard

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